Monday, May 25, 2009
Restaurants Restaurant review: Taverna Fiorentina
Posted by Besha Rodell @BeshaRodell on Mon, May 25, 2009 at 1:00 PM
All but the best menus should be approached as one would a treasure hunt or a detective novel — as a search for clues, ingredients, and preparations that might make for the most enjoyable meal. Where most chefs showcase their best dishes with bravado, Taverna Fiorentina's Andreas Montobbio tends to hide his authentic, soul-pleasing Italian dishes behind the veneer of suburbia-friendly comfort. It's real Italian food posing as watered-down Italian food.
Little information can be garnered from the restaurant’s generic strip-mall façade, or from the classic dining room bedecked in dark wood and muted accents. A large flatscreen TV hovers over the bar playing a slideshow of dramatic Italian villas and vistas. Even the menu's antipasto platters, fritto misto, green salads and veal saltimbocca give the comforting impression that there’s not many risks being taken here.
But in the pasta section, clues start to arise signaling a more serious Italian heart in the kitchen than appearances would have you believe.
Continue reading "Restaurant review: Taverna Fiorentina"
(Photo by James Camp)
Latest in Omnivore
-
Local restaurants honor the late Warren Bruno
Percentage of sales will be donated in Warren Bruno's honor.
-
Weekend food events, May 25-27: 3B Fest, a patio party, and more
Weekend events for Friday May 25 to Sunday May 27.
-
Waiting on Shaun Doty's chicken at Ansley Mall
It's a game of retail dominoes
- More »
More by Author
-
Drew van Leuvan to leave One Midtown Kitchen, open Seven Lamps in the Shops Around Lenox
His new Buckhead restaurant will open this summer.
-
Fresh Loaf has some stuff on it: Atlanta food deserts, me blabbing about basketball
Some bits from our news blog
- More »
Comments (0)