Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Restaurants Beer pick of the week: Smuttynose Maibock
Posted by Jeff Holland on Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 3:16 PM
Smuttynose Brewing Company
Portsmouth, NH
7.7% ABV
The lengthy spring has extended the appeal of styles like maibock, the rich, malty lager that is traditionally served in the month of May. Although the month has passed, this style still holds plenty of appeal. Smuttynose's maibock, part of its Big Beer Series, pours a beautiful, clear autumn gold with a nice two-finger head that settles slowly but inevitably, lacking any significant staying power. A tall pilsner glass really shows off the color, clarity, and slowly rising bubbles.
The doughy, earthy aroma of German malts dominates the nose, with a hint of spicy, floral noble hops in the background. The taste is sweet initially, but more like honey than sugar. Biscuity malt, tannic white grape skins, and a sweet sting of alcohol provide a firm mouthfeel. A touch of ale-like fruitiness in the center suggests honeydew melon and apple. Powdery dry grain, mildly spicy hops, and an astringent bitterness drop hard in the crisp finish, leaving the palate clean and ready for another sip.
This is a well-structured, dryish bock that strikes a nice balance of sweet malt, spicy hops, and alcohol. It lacks the complex malt character of a traditional German maibock like Einbecker, but makes up for it in drinkability and food friendliness. It may set a new standard for the style.
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