Monday, October 26, 2009
Restaurants Lupe opens with a stingy taco policy
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 2:51 PM
We checked out the new Lupe Taqueria (905 Juniper St., 678-904-4584) over the weekend. The new restaurant by Riccardo Ullio is located in the space formerly occupied by Cuerno, his attempt at a Spanish restaurant (something that never seems to succeed in Atlanta).
The new restaurant, named after the Virgin of Guadalupe, features a very straightforward menu of tacos and classics like the chile relleno above and the flan at right. The chile relleno departs from the usual around town by featuring a filling of queso cincho -- an aged, firm cheese that does not melt into the creamy texture of chihuahua cheese.
Although it's completely usual to do so, I prefer my chiles served over the traditional red sauce, not under it, as the chef is doing here. That can easily turn the fried flour-and-egg coating soggy.
I have one major complaint about the restaurant. It calls itself a "taqueria," but you are only allowed to order plates of three-of-a-kind tacos with the usual rice and refried beans -- no mix-and-match. So, even if you're tempted to order a $9 plate of tacos as a starter, they all have to be of a single kind.
I'll have more to say in "Grazing" later this week.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
Comments (9)
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We tried it during the training period last weekend & tasted only a limited menu. Food was up and down; service was down but they were training and the food was free so I'll give a little leeway on that. Still, I'd go to El Rey del Taco on BuHi or even Taqueria del Sol any day over Lupe... we shall see if others agree and Mr. Ullio can make this one work. I think the space is doomed for anything other than maybe just a bar.
We will be allowing to mix and match soon. Mixing and matching will make it a lot more difficult on the kitchen, so we are putting it off to allow them some time to perfect the execution of each dish.
visited for dinner last week and loved it. must try the chipotle gimlet and the shrimp tacos. $9 for 3 tacos (granted no mix and match as of yet) with rice and beans is a steal.
I ate there last week and had a great meal. Tasty tacos, spicy salsa and strong margaritas. The front door valet is a HUGE improvement. So glad to have another late night eatery in Midtown.
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