It arrived like any other hamburger of its type, crowding the plate, oozing melted cheddar cheese from which lengths of crispy bacon jutted. Above all, it glowed with the nostalgia of every American kid's favorite meal. The economy has tanked, the plutocrats bid the lawmakers to let us eat cake, the teabaggers exhort us literally to vote against our own interests. The world has gone mad, but we've still got hamburgers.
Sort of. I took a closer look, as did those sitting at nearby tables in the bar of the new Burger Club (4300 Paces Ferry Road, Vinings, 678-888-9036). There was a barely discernible gasp. A woman's hand flew to her chest. "Yeah," I said, "it's the 'Artery Annihilator.'"
The 8-ounce Angus patty's bun wasn't a bun at all it was two Krispy Kreme doughnuts. As my gaze took in the concoction, childhood nostalgia melted like the sugar glaze on the doughnuts, the globes of fat in the burger, the crystallized fat in the bacon and the drooping fat of the cheese into an adult's vision of slow suicide. Why wasn't it served with Lipitor and beta-blockers?
(Photo by James Camp)
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