Monday, November 23, 2009
Restaurants Miller Union opens
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Mon, Nov 23, 2009 at 3:44 PM
and foodies are buzzing enthusiastically about the Westside home for chef/co-owner Steven Satterfield's take on Southern cooking. Satterfield spent nine years in the kitchen at Watershed with Scott Peacock and has teamed up with Neal McCarthy, the popular manager of Sotto Sotto for years.
The interior, another work by ai3, is just freakin' amazing. I don't know what to call it -- maybe "PoMo Salvaged Southern." The restaurant is divided into several dining rooms, one of which is so crowded it could be in Paris, and they all have ai3's usual spare, clean feeling.
But many of the walls feature construction that recalls farm-style pantry cabinets. The architects have played with the geometry of the cabinets to produce a look that avoids even a single cliche.
Satterfield's food -- local and organic when possible -- is delicious. Our entrees included grilled poulet rouge over green beans and cranberry beans, and beer-braised pork with kale and a sweet potato.
We didn't have a dish that misssed the mark. I'll report more fully in "Grazing" later this week.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
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