Sunday, December 13, 2009
Restaurants Lunch at Bistro Niko
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 6:34 PM
I lunched Friday at Bistro Niko, the latest restaurant opened by the Buckhead Life folks. It's named after Niko Karatassos, son of the restaurant group's founder, Pano Karatassos.
It's located in Buckhead's Sovereign Building, a mixed-use development for zillionaires, featuring decor by artist Todd Murphy. There's even a cluster of deer sculptures by Michael Stipe in front of the building's entrance. I enjoyed seeing this woman, with her blonde hair and red pants color coordinated with the ribbon-festooned deer.
Despite the location, the restaurant, whose decor is a quick transit to Paris, offers a menu with a broad range of prices. That accounts for the very mixed crowd, of everyone from Buckhead Bettys to businessmen and those of us clinging to the edge of the middle class. The place was absolutely packed. The kitchen, behind a smoky glass wall, was humming.
We had a mainly good meal. The only complaint came from my friend Brad Lapin, whose Croque Madame lacked the quantity of mornay sauce that's usual. Its fried-egg topping was overcooked, so the egg's yolk didn't compensate.
My friend Frank and I both ordered a rich shepherd's pie full of veal, apparently from the shank since it's described as "osso bucco" on the menu. Delicious.
My favorite dish of all, though, was my starter of three piquillos stuffed with brandade, among my favorite substances on the planet when done right, over a parsley sauce. I've eaten this dish (without the parsley sauce) in Spain a zillion times and it made me way nostalgic.
I'll have more to say soon in Grazing.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
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