Friday, December 18, 2009
Restaurants Serpas rules
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Fri, Dec 18, 2009 at 10:57 PM
Woo hoo! Alan Richman of GQ has named Serpas True Food one of America's top 10 new restaurants:
Serpas is a big, shiny, modern spot in the Old Fourth Ward, where old-fashioned manufacturing played out. It's so noisy our waitress had laryngitis from yelling at customers. And the cooking of chef Scott Serpas is just as raucous—a little messy and a touch out of control, but I love his passion and sense of place. He does mostly southern and New Orleans food—sweet, hot, and spicy, with a bonus of being endlessly inventive. The fried oysters come with rémoulade, classic enough, but he tops them with pickled chilies. His caramelized-onion-and-beef-short-rib soup with a single Brie-topped floating crouton—not so southern, come to think of it—is what French onion soup dreams of becoming. The desserts, entirely luscious, have unexpected finesse, especially the chocolate-peanut-butter parfait. And best of all, this is the South, not some show-off Yankee spot, so you won't have to worry about microgreens, sous vide, gels, or foams.
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