Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Restaurants Beer pick of the week: The Dark Side
Posted by Jeff Holland on Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 3:40 PM
Terrapin Beer Company
Athens, GA
8.5% ABV
The ninth installment of Terrapin's Side Project Series, just may be its best effort yet. The Dark Side is a Belgian-style Imperial Stout, a style that is rarely found in Belgium, but is proving popular with American brewers looking to explore new styles. One would expect a melding of Belgian yeasty esters and fruity character with roasted malt flavors and warming alcohol.
The Dark Side pours completely black with some caramel brown around the very edges. The nose is full of fresh roasted coffee, malts, and sugar (molasses). The head is a bit anemic and there is not much lacing to speak of, which seems to be a problem with a number of Side Projects. A bit more of the luxurious carbonation of the best Belgians would have lifted this one even higher.
A rich, full mouthfeel is evident right off the bat. Deep malt flavors, dark chocolate, and coffee dominate the flavor. There are hints of tangy dark fruit (prunes, raisin), but the beer is not overly sweet. Bitterness is solid and bracing without being astringent. A bit of herbal hops balance a semi-sweet finish. There is very little alcohol in the nose, but it is a bit evident on the tongue.
Beautifully balanced with a well-structured body that is full without being sticky or cloying, The Dark Side would make a great companion to a Christmas spice cake or pecan pie.
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