The fatty exterior of the breast is thick with salt, which stings a bit on first taste, and then the flavor of the succulent bird floods the mouth. It's served over a kind of witty take on hoppin' john, made with risotto instead of rice, alongside a serving of bracingly sharp and sweet corn relish.
Every ingredient on Stewart's menu appears to be locally sourced. A chalkboard in the main dining room lists the suppliers. The freshness makes a huge difference in dishes like our appetizers one evening — cornmeal-dusted and fried whole okra and a cucumber gazpacho afloat with grilled Georgia shrimp, diced watermelon and a fiery bit of jalapeno.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
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