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Thursday, July 22, 2010

Tales of the Cocktail begins! (for me, anyway)

Posted by Scott Henry on Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 1:23 PM

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  • Scott Henry
It's 10:30 a.m. here in New Orleans' French Quarter and I'm looking at six shots of straight liquor arrayed in front of me — vodka, gin, whiskey, etc. No, I haven't embarked on a lost weekend (exactly). I'm at Tales of the Cocktail, the nation's best-known and most influential hootch convention, again in the historic Monteleone Hotel.

The five-day event began Wednesday, but like many attendees, I rolled in this morning — just in time for a tasting seminar led by Paul Pacult, who has one of the best jobs in the world. As publisher of the Spirit Journal booze-letter, Pacult spends his days — mornings, actually, he says — sampling and reviewing every conceivable type of distilled beverage. Billed as "America's foremost expert on distilled spirits," he leads the ballroom through tastings of several prominent liquors:

>> 100-proof Absolute, like the regular, but moreso
>> Plymouth gin, which Pacult cites as one of top two or three gins now produced
>> Jameson — did you know Irish whiskey is the fastest-growing spirit category of the past decade? I didn't.
>> Chivas Regal 12 yr blended scotch, smooth and stately
>> Scarpa single-malt scotch, surprisingly light and fruity
>> Remy Martin XO — aka, "The Good Stuff." I'm not a cognac drinker, but this is pleasingly floral and caramel-y

As a professional taster, Pacult tells us he never swallows — the better to avoid the "palate fatigue" that comes from sampling multiple distillants — but we, the audience, are under no such constraints.

Is the sampled spirit dry, sweet, acidic, aromatic, smoky, fruity or some combination of the above? (Ideally, yes, a combination that balances these flavors). Can we detect the taste of a baking spice, such as cinnamon or clove? What about a cooking spice, like ginger or allspice? Perhaps it's herbal or draws its essence from a seed, like a caraway-based Scandinavian aquavit? Floral? Earthy? Nutty? Does it taste like 'shrooms, for Christ's sake?

As Atlantans who've followed the city's cocktail renaissance are already aware, there's a world of flavors beyond Jack & Coke. Over the next few days, I hope to take part in a whirlwind tour of international libations mixed by some of the top bartenders from across the U.S. and points beyond. Bottoms up!

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