Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Food media A question of Blais bias in Coast review
Posted by Besha Rodell @BeshaRodell on Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 12:52 PM
- James Camp
I believe a true professional critic writes their column with an unbiased outlook. You clearly have a problem with the fact that Richard Blais and Mr. Catherall parted ways. Could the fact that Mr. Blais works for your paper have anything to do with your negativity toward Mr. Catherall?
It's a fair question, and perhaps it's a little naive of me to think that Blais' contribution to our Food & Drink section wouldn't appear to influence my feelings about his former employer. To be clear, Blais is an occasional freelance contributor, and does not work for Creative Loafing. But there is a relationship between him and the paper, so I think it's worth addressing.
I have very little information about what lead Blais to leave Home, only what rumor has told me. And rumor basically says that Blais had too many other projects and commitments. I'm sure there's more to it than that, but I'm not aware of the details, and I don't particularly care. I didn't think Home was a good fit for Blais at the time, and that was well before he started writing for us.
My review of Coast was of Coast alone - as with most reviews, I find it informative to talk about the history of the location and ownership. My criticism of Tom Catherall and his company's tendency to open theme restaurants with no heart goes back to the days well before he had any relationship with Blais. See my 2006 review of Atlantic Station's Strip for confirmation.
Bringing voices from within the restaurant industry has always been a tricky game, but I feel as though it's worth it. Industry folks are a huge part of our audience, and it bothers me that food journalism has traditionally been outside writers looking in on an industry they often don't understand. I love the idea that, at CL, we provide a voice for chefs and bartenders and waiters. But it presents these issues, where our critical voice can be called into question. I can only try to be as transparent as possible, and to unflinchingly question my own motivations whenever a possible conflict arises.
I sincerely hope that CL's readers have grown to trust me in the four years I've served as critic. But I don't take that trust for granted. I wish Coast was better. My opinion that it's not has nothing to do with Richard Blais.
Comments (15)
Showing 1-15 of 15
If the food sucks, it sucks. There's no need to sugar coat the pedestrian menu. If people think the food is so great then it should be a success but we all know his track record no matter what celeb chef is in there... schmoozing, not cooking for the customers. I feel sorry for the investors who keep pouring in money to float a has been.
Rock on, Cliffy.
like
dislike
Look, I think Catherall is about unimaginative as anyone in the business. But everyone knows the bias shown in CL by Besha and Cliff. Getting a fair review by either after they have already made up their mind about you, from previous restaurants or just personal feelings, is all but impossible. Just look at their history of reviews. Just try and get Cliff to give a fair review to a concentric's restaurant. Or Besha to give a good review of a place that does not bend over backwards to kiss up to her. Oh!! And how do you think they can review a place fairly when that both make sure everyone knows who they are?
I will still try it after the kinks are worked out. I love raw cold h2o oysters, fresh hush puppies. Plus that Seafood Stew looked good to me. Anyone have any hot french bread. Tom next restaurant you open maybe send Besha a care package with some t`shirts, gift cards and some braves tickets. Then she will throw you a good review.
Blais is a hack. A wannabe molecular gastronomist that takes cues from things that were relevant 10 years ago.
If he spent as much time cooking as he does on his hair he would be a much better chef.
I wish Besha explained why she describes Coast as being located in Seeger's building? I guess the employees Of Coast should consider themselves Squatters!
I would just like to know how many meals you had at Coast before you wrote your review. If only one you had no business typing the first word of the story. I am sorry but after reading the piece I am lead to believe you had only one visit, seeing as how you do not mention anything about a second let down or third for that matter. I love how transparent your comments seem (perverse enjoyment) (could not stop eating FOR Some Reason- maybe because you liked it) (black snapper- catfish give me a break- maybe you have never had catfish) (Mediterranean Fish bowl- lacked something in the middle- middle of what- if the broth was no good then the bowl was no good, make up your mind- yet another of the four food items that you liked but could not give the kitchen credit for, you just took it as another chance to bash Tom. Sad and transparent.) I have dined at Coast a few times and believe that they are not trying to pull a fast one on anyone. It is a fish house, fun, blue and vibrant and yes Fried. They are not trying to be Le Bernardin. You want a culinary experience to remember Coast may not be the place, but if fish house food done well by cooks who care if the people they serve eat well that evening then it is your place. I will return and if the food lacks in quality I will be surprised. I give this review by Besha a half star, and only for spelling her own name correctly.
@foodolove: I describe it as the Seeger's building because I believe many people, especially in the industry, still think of it this way, particularly because of the kitchen Seeger built there. Once another restaurant sticks, perhaps that perception will change.
@LovedByCL: As with all our starred reviews, this one was based on multiple visits.
Besha, what I don't think you understand is how your words discredit everyone who has worked in that building post Seegar. I sincerly hope you don't take your readers for granted, because being in the industry myself the only reputation you seemed to have gained is being an unimaginative, accutely biased and irrelevant restaurant slanderer.
Besha, not only does your admitted bias against Tom Catherall do your readers a great disservice, but it is wholly irresponsible as a so called journalist. Every day the chefs, cooks, servers, managers, and bussers make their livelihood working at this restaurant, and the fact that this publication allows you to bash a good restaurant based on previous biases is simply dispicable. Let me say this...I can't stand Tom Catherall. And I don't care much for most of his restaurants. However, Coast makes no pretense about what it is. It is NOT a fine dining restuarant. It is absolutely a copycat beachside restaurant. Of course, the irony of your review is that the food at most beachside restaurants is actually CRAP, whereas Coast has taken that concept and used it to put out solid, if unspectacular, food in an environment that even self-proclaimed foodies are enjoying. It's not H&F. It's not Bacchanalia. To review it as such is simply moronic. And to do it with such unabashed bias that you're actually LYING to your readers about the quality of the food in order to bash Catherall is simply disgusting. Both your editors(if they exist) and you, should be ashamed.
I have no bias against Tom Catherall, nor do I think I'm basing my rating for his restaurants against some unattainable standard. I have positively reviewed Here To Serve restaurants in the past (I particularly liked Lola and was disappointed when it closed), and always hope for every place to be good. I had a lot of hope for Coast, and I agree that it's not god awful, just kind of "fair," which is what the one star rating means.
I have no reason to lie to anyone. This is my opinion and I stand by it. As with any review, that's all it is - an opinion, and an explanation of my experiences at a given restaurant.
Besha Rodell August 10th- "My criticism of Tom Catherall and his company's tendency to open theme restaurants with no heart goes back to the days well before he had any relationship with Blais. See my 2006 review of Atlantic Station's Strip for confirmation."
Besha Rodell August 11th 4:40 pm- "I have no bias against Tom Catherall".
Helloooooooooooo? I mean most critics, food and otherwise, have an aire of self importance, but your DELUSIONS of grandeur take the cake!! Do they pay you for this drivel? And if so, how do I get your job?
Catherall drove a stake through the heart of Atlantas dining scene when he put that uber-tacky deck out front of Seeger's. You reap what you sew!
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