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Tuesday, August 10, 2010

By the glass at... Miller Union

Wine from the Loire meets an egg in celery cream

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  • Jimmy Sobeck
By the glass at: Miller Union (999 Brady Avenue, 678-733-8550. www.millerunion.com)

The dish: Farm egg baked in celery cream

The wine: 2008 St. Nicolas Les Clous Fief Vendeens

The pairing: Delicacy on the plate meets gentle blend in the glass

Miller Union has quickly earned high accolades for their deftly executed farm to table cuisine, though the almost exclusively European and California wine list provides many intriguing offerings, and is deserving of its own praise. The restuarant’s bar, which is a simple and welcoming affair perched between the host stand, a wall of windows and the dining room, is a great setting to sample one of the by-the-glass offerings with a quick bite or a full meal.

The 2008 St. Nicolas Les Clous Fief Vendeens is a personal favorite of part-owner and general manager Neal McCarthy. Hailing from the Loire Valley of France, this blended organic and biodynamic wine is a wonderful balance of chenin blanc and chardonnay. The initial flavors of salty butter and a touch of oak is accompanied by a light amount of chenin blanc acidity and stone fruit, eventually giving way to a slightly mineral finish.

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  • Jimmy Sobeck
The Les Clous was the recommended pairing with Miller-Union’s trademark appetizer of a farm egg baked in celery cream. “I paired the wine with the Farm Egg because of the blend,” McCarthy said. “The chardonnay as a grape is able to cut through the fat from the cream and gives the wine a little sweetness, and the chenin blanc gives crisp notes of acid to clean the palate. “
A very gentle dish, it is important that the wine not overpower the subtlety of the delicate egg yolk in the lightly seasoned and creamy base. A chardonnay on its own may have proven too much, but the mild richness of the chardonnay and the light acidity of the chenin blanc worked in tandem to both complement the creaminess of the yolk and liven up the gentle flavors of the cream. Slathering the egg mixture on the provided grilled peasant bread allows the chardonnay aspect of the wine to shine even more, as the buttery mouth feel plays well with the slight bitterness of the charred flavors.

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