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Sunday, September 19, 2010

Der Biergarten is kitschy fun, with a great beer list

Posted by Scott Henry on Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 10:17 PM

Der-Biergarten-Logo.jpg
I feel guilty about going to the grand opening this past week of Der Biergarten, the new German beer hall and restaurant located in what the area's businesses are fervently hoping we'll start calling the Luckie-Marietta District. Not because of the litre-and-a-half of free beer that I drank — hell, the place probably served a dozen kegs' worth that night — but because I promised Besha I'd blog about it.

Well, here goes. I certainly can't address the service, since the event I attended was a dish-up-your-own-buffet affair. If you can overlook the fact that Der Biergarten sits above a sports bar, the place itself registers as endearingly cheesy, with the usual Bavarian kitsch serving as decor. There's a standard-issue patio on a balcony overlooking Marietta Street, but also a room with roll-up windows to give an open-air effect and beer-hall-style seating with rows of long tables and benches. The fully enclosed dining room was largely unremarkable, except for a few touches that suggest a little extra consideration for authenticity. For instance, a large, round table has a hand-carved wooden sign hanging above that reads, "Stammtisch," which German-speakers will tell you means "the regulars' table."

Fine, fine, but what about the food and beer? I must say that I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of both. I don't claim to be a restaurant critic, but I've traveled several times to Germany and to other countries with German-style cuisine. Also, in Southern Indiana, where I grew up, nearly every older restaurant has at least a few German dishes on its menu. So I can say with some confidence that the brats, cabbage, spaetzle and Jaeger Schnitzel all were quite good. The fact that the schnitzel was crispy, with tasty breading, was particularly welcome, considering it was brought out in a heaping tray, cafeteria-style.

As for the beer selection, it's first-rate. But be warned: This is not the Porter or Taco Mac. Don't go expecting to order a Belgian white or even a Heinekin on draft. It's a German restaurant; they serve German beer. And we're not talking about St. Pauli Girl, Beck's or other export brands. Instead, they have offerings from Spaten, Paulaner, Warsteiner, Weihenstephaner and so forth, including pilsners, hefeweizens and, befitting the season, three Oktoberfest beers. I was particularly pleased to find Franzikaner Dunkelweizen, a rare dark wheat beer that goes down all too easy.

I, for one, am hoping the place does well. Metro Atlanta has long lacked enough German restaurant choices, and we can all do with another outlet for really great beer. BTW, for the rest of the month, Der Biergarten is running some pretty exciting Oktoberfest specials.

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Comments (6)

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I was there recently and was happy with the selection of German beers here. German beer types have been lacking on draft in many Atlanta places in favor of the hoppy IPAs and high-gravity Belgian brews popular among US beer geeks. I've been into German beers in the past year, so Biergarten is a welcome addition for me.

I didn't care much for the inside room. It had a barren feel to it like a conference room with an awkwardly placed, ornate bar on one end. But that's where I had to go since the outside seats were all taken. I think they would have done better to find a way to create a larger outside area.

The only food I had was a big soft pretzel served with three mustards and I liked it very much.

The whole place is a little too kitschy with the classic German shtick in a Helen-GA kinda way. There are ways to do a modern German biergarten without this kitsch -- Bier International in NYC is a good example. But I'll take what I can get in Atlanta. For good German food and beer I'm willing to put up with it.

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Posted by Darin on 09/20/2010 at 11:07 AM

You have been to Germany and found the food comparable?
If you mean bland, then I'll agree!
How about the truth?

The service is slow.
Orders placed in front of wrong guests.
Servers did not allow patrons "right of way"
The beer orders were mixed up.
We we served beers not on the menus.
Drinks took 20+ minutes.
Beer too cold.
Portions are small.
Flavor and authenticity is null.
Big screen TV's, none turned on.

Great space.
Great murals.
Nice beer selection.
Tables spaced out well.
Ceiling fans needed inside "garage" patio.
Clean restrooms.

OK place if you want to drink beer and
you are able to receive "service" at the bar.
Another Tourist trap like Hard Rock.
Take the drive to Helen, GA and eat!
Still "touristy" but with service and flavor!

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Posted by RealityCheck on 09/21/2010 at 10:37 AM

Haha, RealityCheck, if you found the beer too cold, then you have never been to Germany indeed (where we want beer to be as cold as possible). And no German biergarten would annoy its guests with TV, so I am glad the screens were turned off. Why didn't you just eat at the sports bar?

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Posted by MarcoPolo on 10/02/2010 at 6:58 PM

I love reading reviews from people who know nothing about the business why dont you tell me where you work so I can crititize what you do out of complete ignorance. Jack ass

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Posted by getaclue on 10/04/2010 at 8:10 PM

I love reading reviews from people who have no expirience in the biz. I find it entertaining to watch you no it alls speak out of ignorance. Good stuuf keep posting jack ass marco polo

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Posted by getaclue on 10/04/2010 at 8:15 PM

"Servers did not allow patrons 'right of way'"???

Clearly RealityCheck has never been to a real German fest. If you haven't been run over by a Bierfrau...you haven't lived. Chew on that authenticity.

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Posted by nikio on 04/01/2011 at 3:04 PM
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