Friday, November 12, 2010

A visit to H. Harper Station

Posted By on Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 10:45 AM

After Wednesday night's drive-by to verify that H. Harper Station is open, we dined there Thursday night. We ran into another food critic, spied a likely food blogger and chatted with an employee of the long defunct Tortillas. He introduced himself by reciting the contents of the burrito I always ordered there.

The restaurant-bar, located in a former railroad freight depot, has been opened by Chefs Duane Nutter and Reginald Washington and mixologist Jerry Slate. They also operate Rolling Bones, which serves Texas-style barbecue on Edgewood Avenue.

We sampled three small plates and two entrees: jerk meatballs, crawfish hush puppies, little smoked sausages, bacon-and-eggs fettuccine and a burger stacked with shredded barbecued pork. All of the plates were well constructed — layered colorfully — and featured surprising ingredients with mainly great flavors.

For example, the bacon-and-eggs fettuccine was dotted with mustard greens, which were also layered with macaroni and cheese that accompanied the barbecued smoked sausages. The crawfish hush puppies were accompanied by a cauliflower tartar sauce and paper-thin andouille chips. The greens and barbecue notes all show the influence of Rolling Bones. We're talking creative but uncomplicated Southern food.

I groused yesterday about the valet parking. We parked ourselves and, as we walked by the valet, I asked him why a restaurant with so much easily accessible parking had employed his services. He laughed, shrugged and said, "Because the owner wants it."

I'll have more to say in a "Grazing" column in a few weeks.


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