The lunch induced a series of emotional states — excited, nostalgic, bittersweet, giddy, lustful — that culminated in a state of flying thoughts. I should also mention greed. When my friend Andrew asked to consume one of my 20 courses, I snapped his head off, saying, "No! I'm reviewing this."
"And you have to taste every one?" he asked sarcastically.
"Yes, yes I do," I replied.
I guess I should clarify that I'm talking about chocolate — 10 pieces from Cacao Atlanta and the same number from the new Sugar-coated Radical. If you're a foodie worth your salt, you're already quite familiar with Cacao and its owner Kristen Hard, who imbues chocolate with magical qualities ranging from the spiritual to the aphrodisiacal. She has received an avalanche of attention in the press during the last few years.
Taria Camerino, who has been working as a pastry chef for 18 years, is the newest chocolatier in town, undoubtedly due to make a big impression on the industry. As the Sugar-coated Radical (680-A Drewry St., 404-587-4912), she doesn't only stand for fanatical love of chocolate. Camerino also hopes to draw attention to the "dirty" economics and politics of the sugar and chocolate industries.
"We are obsessives, radicals, and revolutionaries. We eat local and direct-trade food. We do not support slavery for cheap ingredients. We are artists," her website says. As such, she and her partner, graphic artist Ashley Hinson, bring to their art a sensibility not often seen in our city, especially not in the culinary arts. I don't mean to suggest that many foodies aren't supportive of sustainability, but I think few carry it to the dimensions they do. They are working, for example, on an art installation that will experientially examine what it means to buy and consume food.
I clicked instantly with Camerino's thinking because I have a history of political activism, including involvement in a neo-Dadaist movement during my first two years of college. (Dadaism was a politically motivated "anti-art art movement." Sounds weird, I know. Look it up.) But more than that, Camerino shares my fascination with the psychology of taste.
I'll have more to say about the Sugar-coated Radical in "Grazing" next week, but in the meantime you should just go taste her chocolate. She won't let anyone leave her tiny shop without a taste. You'll be amazed.
The shop is open 2-7 p.m. Thursday-Sunday.
@TheGorgeousJR: "[It is] very inexpensive; we sell it at the shop. You can get it…
Where can you buy caul fat?
This looks amazing. However, I see a bell pepper on the counter, and bell pepper…
Love pork belly.
Some food just doesn't photograph well, even if it is tasty.
Nothing wrong with grease on the walls if the burger is tasty.