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Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Travel Road Trip: Seeking Soul in Memphis

Posted by Brad Kaplan on Wed, Jul 27, 2011 at 11:35 AM

Paynes
  • Payne's Bar-B-Q
Memphis is a monotonous six hour drive from Atlanta, but it's easy to rationalize those lost hours once you sit down for some of the best BBQ in the country. Whatever you think of when you hear the word "soul" - Memphis has it. Is it the music? The muddy Mississippi? The accumulated smoke of so much barbecued pork? The religious fervor of a gospel service? Or is it just the people who call this hot, humid city home? I think it's all of the above, and it's apparent in the restaurant scene that Memphis excels in soul. And I don't mean just "soul food," though there are a number of places that can scratch that itch. I mean the kind of soul that only arises out of years of toil, the kind of soul that shows itself in gritty old dining rooms and facades that make you question whether a place may be detrimental to your personal safety or your general well-being. If you fear chipped lead paint or a few decades worth of built-up grime, Memphis may not be the place for you. But if you feel that a sense of place can enhance your sense of taste, you'll feel right at home in Memphis. Even the city's most touristy restaurant, the Rendezvous, exudes soul - from the back alley entrance, to the walls literally coated in decades of smoke, to the staff, many of whom have been serving happy customers down in that basement of a restaurant for decades.

Earnestine & Hazels
  • The rules at Earnestine & Hazel's
Memphis hasn't experienced the growth pangs of Atlanta, its neighborhoods are mostly well worn, its people are mostly Memphians of many generations. The city simmers in its own soul, always keeping the past close at hand. Here are a few of my favorite food stops in Memphis that will satisfy anyone seeking a respite from suburban mega-malls and cookie cutter contemporary fast casual dining, anyone seeking soul:

Earnestine & Hazel's: this downtown bar in a run down former brothel is the home of the "soul burger" as well as (reportedly) the home of several ghosts. The upstairs maze of rooms all in a state of somewhat shocking decay might just make you believe in the supernatural, and the Sunday night jazz sessions will make you feel like you're sitting in on an episode of Treme as musicians take turns hanging out and standing up for a solo. There is no menu, just a handful of beers by the bottle, and that "soul burger" - which perfectly captures everything right about this place. 84 E GE Patterson Ave, (901) 523-9754

Payne's Bar-B-Q: the chopped pork sandwich here is magical, an amazing combination of smoke, meat, slaw and sauce that is unlike any other. It is the best sandwich I have ever experienced. The cramped kitchen, the smiles of Ms. Flora Payne behind the counter, and a dining area that feels like the very best kind of dive, not changed in decades, all add to the magic. If you can't make it to Payne's, do yourself a favor and check out this video and interview from the Southern Foodways Alliance. 1762 Lamar Ave, (901) 272-1523

Jerrys Sno-cones
  • Jerry's Sno-cones
Jerry's Sno-cones: where else can you get a powdery soft sno-cone "supreme" (with soft serve ice cream) alongside an order of Delta (as in Mississippi Delta) hot tamales? Jerry's sits somewhere in the 1950's, down a residential road in the northeast corner of the city, and Memphians have been lining up here for what seems like forever to get their fix on a sultry summer day. 1657 Wells Station Rd, (901) 767-2659

Other stars of Memphis soul worth seeking out:
Bryant's Breakfast, 3965 Summer Ave, (901) 324-7494
Cozy Corner Restaurant, 745 N Parkway, (901) 527-9158
Gibson's Donuts, 760 Mount Moriah Rd, (901) 682-8200
Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken, 310 S Front St, (901) 527-4877

Cozy Corner
  • Cozy Corner. Got soul?

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As an adopted Memphisian (note: not what you actually call someone from Memphis), I'd say this is a great little write up. The only other place I'd definitely add to it is Huey's ... cuz it's kinda fun in this day of health code violations to eat in a place that openly invites people to shoot toothpicks into the ceiling.

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Posted by Foodie Buddha on 07/27/2011 at 12:05 PM

I lived in Memphis for 8 years, and while I enjoy living in the ATL, this city has NOTHING on M-town when it comes to heart and soul. Every corner of that city has character and personality. And great food! If you want to go slightly more upscale for your next trip, I heartily recommend McEwen's on Monroe (downtown) or Tsunami in Midtown.

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Posted by mollymolina on 07/27/2011 at 12:22 PM

Buddha - thanks. Huey's is another good choice, the original location at least. And thanks Molly for the other suggestions.

(blatant plug alert) For anyone interested in more on Earnestine & Hazel's and their soul burger, check out this post too - http://www.thirstysouth.com/2011/07/27/bes…

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Posted by Brad Kaplan on 07/27/2011 at 1:12 PM

What DO you call a person from Memphis?

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Posted by themartyparty on 07/27/2011 at 1:18 PM

Hey martyparty, we're Memphians. Y'all are Atlantans, right? Thanks for the love, CL. Come see us soon.

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Posted by 1234herewego on 07/27/2011 at 3:13 PM
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