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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Christiane Lauterbach kicks and kisses restaurants

The latest issue of Christiane Lauterbach's Knife & Fork is out and, as usual, it's crammed with information every foodie needs to know. Among the highlights:

Chef Bruce Logue, formerly chef at La Pietra Cucina, will be opening a pasta bar, Boccalupo, similar to New York's Torrisi "in an undisclosed location."

The new Lawrence disappoints Christiane and earns only one star. She raves about the pasta from Storico Fresco, yearns for Germany's currywurst, and celebrates STG Strattoria with three stars.

There's an article entitled: "Why we don't review Thai restaurants any more, a manifesto." By way of explanation of the title, the essay includes a brutal account of a visit to Panita Thai Kitchen in Virginia-Highland. The service, she writes, was no better than the food:

A request to take the dish home resulted in a compartmentalized Sytrofoam box being thrown on our table. Wishing to test the limits of bad service, we simply stared down the lone manager/waitress until, in a final show of disrespect, she flung the $28 entree pell mell into the container as if it were mere kitchen garbage.

Y'all don't mess around with Christiane. And, seriously, subscribe if you want the scoop on dining in Atlanta from Atlanta's longtime and foremost critic. Call 404-378-2775.

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