
Take, for example, this pork belly cooked almost bacon-crisp and eaten Vietnamese-style wrapped in lettuce leaves. Add a piquant slaw and Dijon mustard.
A riskier dish is a schnitzel made of scallops. It's topped with a couple of salty anchovies and a fried quail egg. Capers and grebiche sauce round out the flavors. I have to admit the dish blindsided me with nostalgia. My mother used to set shrimp afloat in a grebiche-like sauce, probably my childhood favorite.

We dined on the patio, by the way. If you eat there on your birthday, I suggest you not face Peachtree Street, where you will see the big sign on the office of the Neptune Society. Yes, those are the folks who offer "cremation services."
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