Omnivore - Gino’s: where time stands still

• Cliff Bostock’s iPhone
• Slow to arrive, but tasty enough

Tick tock. Tick tock.

That’s the sound of time passing while I waited on my server at Gino’s New York Pizza Bar today. After seating me and getting my drink, she disappeared for nearly 10 minutes before I could order. Others in the sparsely filled dining room placed their orders with other servers.

I looked around. The focal point of the usual red interior is an open kitchen wrapped by a glass case that displays different pizzas and desserts. I took a few snapshots. I checked my email.

Finally, I asked one of the other servers to ask mine to drop by my table. She appeared, all smiles. “Are you ready to place your order?” she asked. I burst out laughing.

Then, she disappeared again. Tick tock. Tick tock. I watched others who had arrived after me getting served. I was on the verge of leaving, when the server suddenly appeared with my cheese calzone.

How was it? It was actually surprisingly good. The three cheese filling — ricotta, parmesan, and mozzarella — was alternately creamy and stringy, just like it should be. The pizza dough was crispy and chewy, and, at $7.95, the price was right.

Oh. After I placed my credit card on the bill she delivered to my table, she disappeared again. Finally, I walked up front to pay.

Although I didn’t try anything besides the calzone on the menu, I feel somewhat inspired to return — when I have the time.