Wednesday, September 26, 2012
News A visit to Highroad Craft Ice Cream at Sweet Auburn Curb Market
Posted by Cliff Bostock @cliffbostock on Wed, Sep 26, 2012 at 1:09 PM
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I'm cursing Christiane Lauterbach and her latest issue of Knife & Fork. She reviews the new ice cream booth, Highroad Craft Ice Cream & Sorbet, at the Sweet Auburn Curb Market. I went, I ate two giant scoops, I couldn't believe my mouth. So I'm returning later today.
The ice cream isn't new. It's made at a facility in the Chamblee area. And it's been retailed around Atlanta and in some national groceries, including Whole Foods, for a while, but has been completely off my radar screen. This is the company's first independent shop.
Yesterday I tried the brown-sugar praline. I expected something like the usual toffee-esque commercial ice creams. Instead, I got buttery-rich, soft pieces of real pralines. I'm guessing they are made by Miss D's New Orleans Pralines, located in a booth at the front of the market.
Being a fig addict, I also tried the fig-balsamic. Thick with chopped, fresh figs, the ice cream also exploded with vinegary tastes here and there. I can't imagine how the balsamic is contained without overtaking the entire ice cream. I tried a spoonful of mango, lime and chile sorbet whose flavors are jarring at first and then settle into one of those mouth medleys we love.
There's much more to sample....
In not-so-happy news of the market, Ciao Bocca has closed its booth....
Christiane reports in Knife & Fork that Dennis Lange is opening a new restaurant, Southbound, in Chamblee. Dennis came to fame with his (still-missed) Buckhead spot, Yakitori Den Chan, years ago, and then opened Five Seasons Brewery with several partners.
Incidentally, the cover of Knife & Fork this month is devoted to a three-star update of The Shed at Glenwood, raving about new chef Todd Richards' tasting menu (at the bar) and additions to the regular entree and small-plate menu. As she writes: "The transition from wonderful fresh bistro to ambitious culinary showcase has just begun at The Shed."
(To subscribe to Knife & Fork, call 404-378-2775. There's no website, and there ain't gonna be.)
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