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Grazing: Updates on Peasant Bistro and Chef Liu

Downtown French, uptown Chinese

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  • James Camp
  • NOT-SO-RUBBER DUCKY: Peasant Bistro’s duck leg confit with fig mille-feuille


When the Peasant Bistro opened four years ago across from Centennial Park, I wasn't expecting much more than a fancy-schmancy tourist trap. Instead, I had a terrific meal prepared by Chef Shane Devereux, a young newcomer from Philadelphia with a passion for French cooking.

His brandade, maybe my favorite substance on earth, was as evocative and sensual as any I've eaten anywhere.

It wasn't long before Devereux left the Peasant to join the guys opening the hip TOP FLR, which spawned the Sound Table and the Lawrence. He held the title of executive chef at all three restaurants. Now, although retaining partnership in the Lawrence and still cooking there most nights, he has returned to the Peasant as executive chef. His sous chef at the Lawrence, Eric (E. B.) Brown, has joined him as chef de cuisine.

Read the full story here.