
His brandade, maybe my favorite substance on earth, was as evocative and sensual as any I've eaten anywhere.
It wasn't long before Devereux left the Peasant to join the guys opening the hip TOP FLR, which spawned the Sound Table and the Lawrence. He held the title of executive chef at all three restaurants. Now, although retaining partnership in the Lawrence and still cooking there most nights, he has returned to the Peasant as executive chef. His sous chef at the Lawrence, Eric (E. B.) Brown, has joined him as chef de cuisine.
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