Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Dish of the week and the best mole in town

Posted By on Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 10:45 AM

This new dish, a braised, Greek-style lamb shank served over orzo, is worth a trip to Roxx Tavern. It's only available after 5 p.m. Friday and all day Saturday. Cost is $17.95.

I also paid a visit with four friends to Nuevo Laredo Cantina last Friday. It's been more than a year since I last visited this hugely popular restaurant opened by Chance Evans in 1992.

The reason I haven't been is the lengthy wait for a table. Friday, we waited 45 minutes, but that doesn't seem so long if you're with a group swilling margaritas and munching on chips. Careful with the latter, because they can easily diminish your hunger by the time you're at your table.

There's one dish above all others I recommend here (and have for years). It's the chicken mole ($15.95). I really haven't encountered a dark mole anywhere in the city as good as Nuevo Laredo's, and that includes the taquerias on Buford Highway. If you don't want the chicken mole, you can order a side of mole for experimentation.

The chicken diablo, cooked with red chili guajillo sauce, is also a good choice, as is the beef brisket, whether filling a taco or as an entree with a couple of sides. You get the typical rice and frijoles refritos here, but the latter is an unusually creamy version that maintains its texture (and real, actual flavor!) without rapidly congealing into a mess.

The ambiance inside the restaurant, like outside deck where people wait, is pretty frantic. Tables are close to one another and the walls are covered with Mexican kitsch. It all makes for a great experience.

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