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Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Dinner at D.B.A. Barbecue

My Friday night dining companions were in the mood for barbecue last week and we headed to D.B.A. Barbecue in Virginia-Highland. This 3-year-old restaurant received a lot of mediocre reviews when it first opened. The usual complaint was that the smoked meats were dry. That's changed for the most part.

I ordered a plate of brisket and house-cured pastrami. The meat wasn't terribly dry, but it did need big doses of barbecue sauce. My favorite sauce is still the vinegar-heavy Carolina one. Others on the table were ketchuppy and cloyingly sweet, even when a bit piquant.

My sides were the addictive creamed corn and candied bacon, a true case of gilding the lily.

D.B.A. remains a festive spot with a nearly ironic decor. It's kinda kitschy, but by intention rather than ignorance. It's perfect for Virginia-Highland's upper middle class, which seems to keep the restaurant quite busy. There is live entertainment now and then, and the bar is well known for its selection of "moonshine."

You might want to order the restaurant's special chicken wings for your Super Bowl party. But you better hurry and make a reservation now. Call 404-249-5000.

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