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Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Glutton at Large: Abattoir and Floataway Café

SMALL POKE: Abattoir's ahi tuna poke with sesame powder
  • James Camp
  • SMALL POKE: Abattoir's ahi tuna poke with sesame powder

The names Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison are synonymous with great food in Atlanta. The powerhouse couple seem to be everywhere, whether it's through one of their existing (or upcoming) projects or whenever a staff member whom they've trained lands at a top-tier Atlanta restaurant. While Bacchanalia and Star Provisions remain their strongest and most consistent concepts, the other two - Abattoir and Floataway Café - are in a state of flux, one bad and one good.

When Abattoir opened in 2009, fresh on the heels of the exploding nose-to-tail trend, the restaurant positioned itself as a place for the offal-seeking, adventurous diner. (Abattoir is French for slaughterhouse.) While Atlanta was initially excited by the newness and the restaurant's perceived edginess, it never became a destination despite its pedigree, location, and styling. Since opening, the kitchen has gone through changes. Its opening chef, Joshua Hopkins, left at the end of 2011. Tyler Williams was then promoted to top toque. Under Williams' leadership, it seemed that Abattoir might realize its potential, but he left in January 2013 to head up the kitchen at Woodfire Grill and Brett Ashcroft took the lead. Recent visits to Abattoir have revealed a restaurant that still has not decided what it would like to be.

Continue reading "Glutton at Large: Abattoir and Floataway Café" by Jennifer Zyman

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