Omnivore - Are you allergic to goat?

Times columnist goes after restaurant foodie culture

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Every restaurant foodie alive needs to read Joyce Wadler’s parody in the New York Times, “Mean Cuisine.” It’s among the most acerbic I’ve read. The opening grafs:

Good evening, I’ll be your server tonight.

Does anyone in the party have any food allergies?

And on your paternal grandmother’s side?

What about goat, anyone allergic to goat? Because that’s our appetizer special tonight, Dutchess County free-ranging baby goat, lovingly dispatched as the New York City Children’s Choir sings it a traditional Austrian goat-herd lullaby. You can watch it yourself on our closed-circuit television. In fact, we insist you watch. It will be served vol-au-vent. Can anyone in this party define vol-au-vent? Very good, we’ll be allowing you to keep your table until you’ve almost finished dessert.