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Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Knife & Fork reviews King + Duke and Gunshow

The latest issue of Christiane Lauterbach's Knife & Fork has at least one surprise. Ford Fry's latest, King + Duke, earns an unusual three stars while Kevin Gillespie's Gunshow rates only two.

Christiane says this about King + Duke's cuisine, prepared by Chef Joe Schafer:

Delightful inventions such as a combination of crispy torn potatoes and an herb salad used as garnishes for lamb saddle chops with warm green olives and minted salsa verde have much to do with establishing King + Duke's gourmet reputation...The restaurant does all it can to engage its customers imagination.

While calling Gunshow's "food ... almost always tasty and entertaining," the review includes these sentences:

The restaurant feels more stressful than pleasurable, with too much going on in the spare dining room filled with hard edges and loud music ... A lot of money can be spent at a fierce pace, especially if you don't realize that the "assorted savory, spicy, crispy, and crunchy snacks"...are priced individually at $6.

Christiane also reviews Villains Wicked Heroes (two stars) and CousCous (1.5 stars). There's also a ramble around Barcelona and a piece about Hungarian food's emergence in Atlanta.

The Atlantan has put out its annual restaurant issue. The magazine is published by Modern Luxury, so you're not going to find neighborhood and ethnic spots. It's all about fine dining, with the exception of one brief article. For example, the "five restaurants to see and be seen" include the Optimist, Bistro Niko, Del Frisco's Grille, STK, and Ruth's Chris Steak House.

Zzzzzz.

The issue also includes a tour of flashy restaurants around the country. You might not get to them, but the photography is pure food porn, so check it out ...

NOTE: To subscribe to Knife & Fork, call 404-378-2775. There is no online edition. And, by the way, what's the deal with using the plus symbol instead of an ampersand or the word "and"? King + Duke + Bantam + Biddy = Weird + Grammar.

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