Cooking

Monday, February 25, 2013

Get in Ma Mouth: Beet Edition

Posted by on Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 10:25 AM

Beets with yogurt and zaatar

I don't think I ever actually cooked a beet until I was about 30 years old. My childhood was one of those that included the repulsion that only canned beets can produce. Their staining red syntheticness scarred me, scared me off beets for years to come. Until I moved to California. Maybe it wasn't the fact that it was California, but rather that I started shopping at local farmers markets. There were the easy temptations - the heirloom tomatoes and the ripe, fragrant stone fruits and the supremely bitter arugula. Then there were those things that I simply hadn't cooked before. I started cooking Brussels sprouts after buying them still on the stalk, and have loved them ever since. And I finally found a way to overcome my aversion to beets, having read about the wonders of roasting them in the oven and the reassurances that doing so would erase all (OK, most) memories of canned beets from the brain.

Which brings us to Jerusalem. Or at least the cookbook called Jerusalem.

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Friday, January 18, 2013

How come you don't have a sous vide circulating bath system?

Posted by on Fri, Jan 18, 2013 at 9:30 AM

Sous vide circulating bath system
  • cuisinetechnology.com
  • Sous vide circulating bath system

I ran into a friend who is an interior designer last week and the conversation turned to kitchens. He said that he was working with a client who wants a super-modern one with every new gadget built-in and so sleek "you'd hardly know it was a kitchen."

My friend said he prefers designs with free-standing appliances - "kitchens that look like kitchens."

I don't really have a preference. If you spent two years editing a large design magazine, as I did, you might not care, either. When friends spend $100,000 on a kitchen redo, I always blurt, "Why? Wouldn't you rather take a cruise around the world?"

The subject of kitchens came up recently in an interesting debate between Ryan Avent of The Economist and Matthew Iglesias of Slate. Both essays are followed by spirited commentary by readers.

Avent's essay is about the slowdown of American technology. He spends a paragraph illustrating his argument with kitchen development:

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Monday, December 31, 2012

Cookbook of the Year: Jerusalem

Posted by on Mon, Dec 31, 2012 at 1:04 PM

jerusalem.jpg
The world may not need more good recipes, but good stories are always in demand. And a good cookbook not only tells a story, but also helps its readers create their own stories through meals with family and friends. Jerusalem is such a book.

I have to admit, I'm in no place to actually pick a "cookbook of the year." Of the hundreds (thousands?) of new cookbooks this year, I've only actually read and cooked from a few. There were some with strong Atlanta ties worth pointing out - Kevin Gillespie's Fire in My Belly was well received, and Adam Roberts' Secrets of the Best Chefs leaned heavily on Atlanta chefs for inspiration. But Jerusalem, by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, is as worthy of singling out as its namesake city.

I'm not alone in praising Jerusalem. Eater.com compiled a mega-list of the various "best of 2012" lists out there, and Jerusalem came out on top. It's a book that, yes, has intriguing recipes. And mouth watering photos. But, most of all, it has a great story to tell.

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Wednesday, December 19, 2012

$20 Dinner with Angus Brown

Posted by on Wed, Dec 19, 2012 at 11:22 AM


"That's where we did it," chef Angus Brown says. He's standing over a tree stump in the backyard of his friend and local farmer Hudson Rouse. Nearby, more than 30 chickens in two separate enclosures cluck and peck and eat. Brown half-shudders/half-laughs as he and Rouse recount the gnarly tale of their most recent exercise in backyard butchery, complete with disembodied chickens squawking through severed necks. Moonshine was involved.

In the last three months, Brown has butchered three live goats, a lamb, and two chickens. He says his first kill, a goat at an area farm, was intense. "But then after you do it a few times, it gets easier," he says.

On this particular visit to Rouse's backyard chicken operation, however, Brown is in the market for some eggs. In fact, he made the special detour through East Atlanta to procure what he's found to be the best eggs he's ever worked with. "They have super bright yolks and I think it has a lot to do with the feed and the way that they're treated, no stress," Brown says. "Hudson's eggs are the bomb."

Read the full story here.

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Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Get in Ma Mouth: Caul Fat (what!?) Edition

Posted by on Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 9:30 AM

FATTY PATTY: The Spotted Trotters crépinettes made with caul fat
  • Joeff Davis
  • FATTY PATTY: The Spotted Trotter's crépinettes made with caul fat

Caul fat. Sounds delicious, no?

Better yet, looks delicious, no??? No.

OK, I'll admit it, caul fat is an unlikely topic for Get in Ma Mouth. Looking at the stuff, a descriptor that might come to mind for most of you would be "highly unappetizing." I like to think of it as cool and unusual, and even somewhat magical in its applications to cooking. It's one of those applications, a classic French dish called Pojarski de veau, that is the real topic of this Get in Ma Mouth. But before we get to that dish, a little background is required.

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Friday, October 19, 2012

Considering collard greens

Posted by on Fri, Oct 19, 2012 at 10:42 AM


Collard greens, the leafy greens of the Brassica Oleracea species to which cabbage and broccoli also belong, are the ultimate Southern vegetable. Think spinach's unkempt, rather large, rough-and-tumble cousin who's spent a lot of time kicking around in the dirt. Along with fried chicken, slow-cooked vegetables, biscuits, and field peas, collards form the cornerstone of Southern cuisine. So when I say they stink like fetid ass when they cook, I do so with great deference for a cuisine outside my Northern culinary roots.

Collards — like opossum stew, fermented whale blubber, and stinky tofu — take some getting used to for those mere mortals whose last names are not Zimmern or Bourdain. Who in their right mind dives into a bowl of snotty natto (fermented soybeans) unless their mommy has been feeding it to them since they were toddlers? Not having been reared on puréed collards, the smell and taste of the greens were a wee upsetting and perplexing to me upon first exposure.

Read the full story by Nick Oltarsh here.

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Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Learn to cook from former 'Top Cheftestants' online

Posted by on Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 1:32 PM

chefs.jpg

Atlanta-based online learning website Learn It Live has wrangled a few former Top Cheftestants, and they want to teach you how to cook. Each chef will host a live cooking class where students are able to interact, ask questions, and give comments via the session's live chat. Students are sent an ingredient list before the class and can follow along from their own kitchens. Laptops in kitchens make me nervous, but it's 2012 and I guess we do things like that now, so what the hell.

Classes are $40 each, but if you tell them we sent you, they'll knock $10 off your first session. Just email: info AT learnitlive.com and let them know which session you're interested in and they'll send you a code to redeem the discount.

It's a win-win. The chefs don't have to travel so much, and students don't need to leave their lair. Technology one, face-to-face interaction zero.

Here's the class lineup, dibs on FABIO!:

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Friday, August 24, 2012

What is the Atlanta Chicken Experiment?

Posted by on Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 4:11 PM

FX-Atlanta-640x228.jpg

Once upon a time there were two guys who liked to cook. They were pretty good at it and really competitive, which makes sense because both guys were serial cook-off competitors. They were not friends. In fact, they were epic rivals in constant competition. But in the name of "GLORIA CULINARIUS" i.e. culinary glory, New York City cook-off kings Nick Suarez and (Emory alum) Theo Peck joined forces to create the the Food Experiments cook-off tour:
The Experiments are a series of cooking competitions that challenge amateur chefs to create around 300 samples of a dish featuring an “experimental” ingredient or theme. Over twenty Experiments have taken place involving beer, cheese, chocolate, tacos, brunch, Brooklyn roots, holiday and booze themes.

Peck, who now sits on the other side of the judging table, values a competition where everyone has a fair shot at winning. But he thinks the most valuable part of the Experiments is the resulting sense of community. "For some people, it is not about winning. It is about finding a room full of like minded people who love food and more importantly, love to eat!" Peck says. "We usually leave a close knit community in our wake."

Next month, with the help of Brooklyn Brewery, Suarez and Peck will bring their cook-off community to our neck of the woods.

More after the jump

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Monday, July 9, 2012

Cooking the Whole Foods way

Posted by on Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 10:32 AM

Fresh, local field peas hatched the idea for a David Sweeney-esque grain bowl
  • Brad Kaplan
  • Fresh, local field peas hatched the idea for a David Sweeney-esque grain bowl
Lately I've been letting my trips to Whole Foods determine my meals. No, I'm not pigging out at the new dessert bar (though it is tempting). I have a simple approach... Start in produce. What looks especially good? Is it local (and seasonal)? Is it on sale (goodness gracious Whole Foods can be expensive)?? Can I figure out what to do with it??? If the answer to at least three of those questions is yes, then there's a good chance that fruit or vegetable will end up in my cart. It doesn't HAVE to be on sale. But it sure helps. It doesn't HAVE to be local. But I really prefer that it is - both in concept and for the fact that it's inherently fresh and in season.

Once I'm through in the produce section, I usually have a few ideas simmering. Those peaches? Maybe a grilled peach salad, or a peach salsa. Those field peas? Definitely into a grain bowl with some quinoa a la David Sweeney. That corn? Hmmm, cold corn soup? Or an accent to an unusual salad?

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Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Bon Rappetite publishes cookbook

Posted by on Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:34 PM

Cover of the Bon Rappetite cookbook
WABE 90.1 broadcast a piece this morning about the notorious Bon Rappetite. In case you haven't heard:

"Bon Rappetite is the world’s first hip hop restaurant. Featuring a delicious menu that caters to the ballers,” is how BonRappetite.com explains the Atlanta dining concept.

Good idea, eh?

Much to the disappointment of foodies and hip-hop moguls alike, Bon Rappetite isn’t really a restaurant.

It’s a joke.

The news is that the site's owners have published a cookbook featuring the imaginary cuisine of Bon Rappetite. Find it on Amazon.

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