Glutton at Large

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Glutton at Large: Guide to eating in Decatur

Posted By on Thu, Sep 12, 2013 at 11:40 AM

BARFLY: Cakes and Ale's ratatouille with polenta and farm egg
  • James Camp
  • BARFLY: Cakes and Ale's ratatouille with polenta and farm egg

For this week's Glutton at Large column, I crawled Decatur and rediscovered what a treasure it is. I hit Cakes & Ale, Paper Plane, and the Pinewood Tippling Room all in one night, and you can read all about it here. But Decatur is loaded with seemingly endless food and beverage options. There wasn't enough room to mention of all of my favorite spots in print, so I had to take it to the blog. While this is by no means an exhaustive list, it's a good place to start whether you want to grab a beer, a meal, or a quick sweet treat in Decatur:

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Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Glutton at Large: Abattoir and Floataway Café

Posted By on Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:25 AM

SMALL POKE: Abattoir's ahi tuna poke with sesame powder
  • James Camp
  • SMALL POKE: Abattoir's ahi tuna poke with sesame powder

The names Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison are synonymous with great food in Atlanta. The powerhouse couple seem to be everywhere, whether it's through one of their existing (or upcoming) projects or whenever a staff member whom they've trained lands at a top-tier Atlanta restaurant. While Bacchanalia and Star Provisions remain their strongest and most consistent concepts, the other two - Abattoir and Floataway Café - are in a state of flux, one bad and one good.

When Abattoir opened in 2009, fresh on the heels of the exploding nose-to-tail trend, the restaurant positioned itself as a place for the offal-seeking, adventurous diner. (Abattoir is French for slaughterhouse.) While Atlanta was initially excited by the newness and the restaurant's perceived edginess, it never became a destination despite its pedigree, location, and styling. Since opening, the kitchen has gone through changes. Its opening chef, Joshua Hopkins, left at the end of 2011. Tyler Williams was then promoted to top toque. Under Williams' leadership, it seemed that Abattoir might realize its potential, but he left in January 2013 to head up the kitchen at Woodfire Grill and Brett Ashcroft took the lead. Recent visits to Abattoir have revealed a restaurant that still has not decided what it would like to be.

Continue reading "Glutton at Large: Abattoir and Floataway Café" by Jennifer Zyman

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Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Tender and tasty Korean barbecue in Duluth

Posted By on Tue, Apr 2, 2013 at 10:37 AM

GANGSTA GRILL: 678's combination barbecue meat dinner plus banchan
  • James Camp
  • GANGSTA GRILL: 678's combination barbecue meat dinner plus banchan

Once upon a time, Buford Highway was the place to go for ethnic food and new culinary experiences. But, in the past five years, the quality of many standbys went downhill and new restaurants chose fresher - and further - locations to open, including Duluth, Tucker, and Suwanee. This migration was especially true when it came to Korean restaurants - namely those focused on barbecue. Even in Duluth, where Korean barbecue abounds, finding a restaurant that uses charcoal instead of propane is tough - the flavor imparted by coals is far superior. Not all Korean barbecue restaurants are created equal. Some serve a lesser product because there is now an expectation of value at Korean barbecue restaurants - a by-product of the all-you-can-eat trend that began around the time Duluth's Iron Age opened in 2010. But, for those of us searching for superior meat plus charcoal, 678's meat is hard to beat.

Continue reading "Glutton at Large: 678" by Jennifer Zyman here.

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Wednesday, February 27, 2013

The Glutton at Large: Atlanta sushi roundup

Posted By on Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 12:36 PM

SUPER FRESH: Sushi Hukus nigiri assortment
  • James Camp
  • SUPER FRESH: Sushi Huku's nigiri assortment

Last February, before departing for the left coast, Besha Rodell wrote about the void MF Sushi's closing created and posed the question: Where do you go for good sushi in Atlanta? A little more than a year later, I have an answer. While each of these restaurants has been around for many years and are all known for sourcing top-tier fish, two have transformed, while the others have solidified their elite status.

When Sushi Huku changed hands a couple of years ago, the restaurant's customer base was skeptical about the young new Korean chef, Jerome "Jey" Oh, whose parents run the front of the house. Would Huku hold its place among Atlanta's elite? Was this kid any good?

Continue reading "The Glutton at Large: Atlanta sushi roundup" by Jennifer Zyman

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