Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Notes from abroad: Things I didn't eat while in the UK

Posted By on Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 11:00 AM

A Yeoman Warder, AKA Beefeater, at the Tower of London
  • Brad Kaplan
  • A Yeoman Warder, AKA Beefeater, at the Tower of London

In my mind, I was plotting the path to St. JOHN, pinpointing the date and time I could squeeze in a meal at the restaurant that has helped shape contemporary London dining. Oh, I was researching other bounties, too — pubs known for their offerings of ales, chip shops for takeaway, outposts of Indian curry — but St. JOHN was the one single reservation I hoped to snag during my two weeks in and around the UK on a family trip. As the date approached, though, the reality of traveling with extended family (eleven of us) started to take hold. In this group, I was the lone food obsessed traveler, the only one eager to research and track down and hunt for the food that defined the place. If I were coming to Atlanta for the first time and wanted to get a feel for the place, I'd probably be cozying up to the bar at Holeman & Finch for its Southern hog-washed hospitality rather than eating at whatever restaurant sat outside my hotel, then the next day I'd marshall all resources necessary to run my own marathon of fried chicken eating to uncover a favorite. But in this case, with such a broad group of extended family, I didn't want to impose my agenda on everyone else's vacation - a trip across London to eat at St. JOHN seemed, well, selfish.

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Wednesday, June 18, 2014

A traveler's dining guide to New York City restaurants

Posted By on Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 1:00 PM

Any food lover planning a trip to New York City faces the same dilemma: How do you cram in as much amazing food as possible in just a few days? On any given day in New York there's likely to be a slew of hot pop-ups, hard-to-get-items with crazy long lines (like chef David Chang's recent shrimp stack burger at Shake Shack), and newly opened eateries dripping with hype. It's enough to make your head spin and your stomach growl.

Should you shoot for the new, trendy restaurants in town or hit up the old-school classics? Should you stay in your "neighborhood," or trek to the outer boroughs? There is no clear-cut answer. I've found even the most meticulously planned New York eating itineraries are hard-wired to go astray.

After my annual spring visit, I suggest making reservations at dinnertime (hard-to-get reservations can even be purchased last-minute) and choosing one location for lunch per day. Since it's New York, and many establishments have multiple locations, you may later find you are close to a place a little further down on your wish list that may not have made the initial cut. For me, Yelp's "nearby" feature was invaluable for this purpose. For instance, when I went to have lunch at Parm, I discovered Black Seed Bagel was a only short walk away.

No matter how you slice it, deciding where to eat in New York can be a daunting task. Great food is everywhere. I say charge up your MetroCard and just go with it. Here's where I went. (You can check out a full photo gallery of my NYC eating adventures below.)

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Monday, November 11, 2013

Notes: Fried chicken, trans fats ban, and more

Posted By on Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 12:31 PM

Linton Hopkins
I'm playing catch-up with some links I've recorded but not posted in the last few months.

The most Southern link, which turns out not to be so Southern, is back from an August 30 Wall Street Journal article entitled "Why We Can't Get Enough Fried Chicken." It includes an interview with Linton Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene and mentions versions by Ford Fry at JCT. Kitchen (including Fry's recipe) and Asha Gomez at Cardamom Hill.

Writer Josh Ozerky, who calls fried chicken this year's "it dish," includes both Hopkins' and Fry's chicken on his list of 11 favorites, describing them this way:

Restaurant Eugene, Atlanta: A mind-bending chicken cooked in a cocktail of savory animal fats.

JCT. Kitchen & Bar, Atlanta: Stripped-down, urbane, brilliant.

Now, here's a catty observation, but still...The WSJ piece came out almost a year to the day after Jennifer Zyman penned a piece for the AJC, "Hot Fried Chicken." True, Ozerky's piece was more general, but he did strongly stress the trend toward spicy-hot chicken, including the Korean versions, common in Atlanta now. You need to read both articles to get a good overview. (Jennifer also wrote a piece for CL about Korean fried chicken in 2008, about the time it began its surge.)

Ozerky's article has one omission history-wise. It doesn't mention Scott Peacock, former chef at Watershed, whose chicken is legendary. True, he's not in the restaurant biz these days, but how can you write about the resurgence of fried chicken without mentioning him and his mentor, Edna Lewis?

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Saturday, June 15, 2013

We'll always have Paris (the app)

Posted By on Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 4:10 PM

A not too touristy cafe with good onion soup? Check.
  • Brad Kaplan
  • A not-too-touristy café with good onion soup? Check.

For some strange reason, amongst people I know, this is the summer of Paris. We just got back. We ran into two sets of friends while we were there. We actually had two other sets of friends in Paris that same week that we didn't get to see. And another few on their way later this month. Why now? Why Paris?

When you're in Paris, the answer seems painfully obvious - because it's Paris. It's always a good time to be there. No other place in the world has that same swanky and sensuous swirl of art and architecture, romance and frivolity, and, dare I say most importantly, food. Ahhh, the food. And it's not just the presence of the food, but the way in which the people of Paris partake of it. It's the daily trip to the boulangerie, the fromagerie, the boucherie down the block. It's the stroll through the crowds at the weekly open air markets. It's the pique-nique along the Seine laughing at the tourists packed into the passing bateaux mouches river tours. (I'll admit, I partook of both pique-niques and boat tours on this trip)

So, if you are fortunate enough to be making your way to Paris (and have an iPhone), I have one piece of advice: download Patricia Wells' Food Lover's Guide to Paris app tout de suite (that means "right away").

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Monday, June 3, 2013

A report from Marrakech

Posted By on Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 11:50 AM

My friend Lee Orr - lucky dog - is in Marrakech on the way to Nice and Paris for three months. I thought I'd share some of his latest email, including this disturbing paragraph:

Things are cheaper here, about 40-50 percent, except for American places like KFC, which is about what it is at home. And no corn syrup! I've had my first Cokes and ice cream in years. Is this why I've seen no really fat people? They also have orange juice stands everywhere - fresh squeezed for 4 cents. The expected snake charmers and monkeys.

Now, why in the world would anyone go to Marrakech and eat KFC? His reply:

I got really tired of tagines and lamb. And it is across the street. I'm off now to a very good Indian restaurant high atop this swanky hotel. No fried chicken or tangines.

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Thursday, January 31, 2013

Down in Thomasville: Sweet Grass Dairy Cheese Shop

Posted By on Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 10:30 AM

Sweet Grass Dairy Cheese Shop in Thomasville
  • Brad Kaplan
  • Cotton in the window at Sweet Grass Dairy Cheese Shop in Thomasville

Unless you're on your way to Tallahassee, you probably have to go out of your way to get to Thomasville. It's a little town just north of Georgia's border with Florida, about 40 miles due west of Valdosta and I-75. And even though it was a bit out of my way when I was driving home from Florida with my family in early January, I knew I wanted to make my way to Thomasville for one reason: Sweet Grass Dairy.

You've probably heard of Sweet Grass Dairy's cheeses, but there's a good chance you didn't know that they operate a cute little cheese shop/wine shop/cafe in the historic heart of Thomasville. I had heard about the shop, but didn't know what to expect as we drove into town. The road from Valdosta is an immediate jump from the interstate into agriculture country, ringed by fields and farms, then mills and farm supply shops as you get closer to Thomasville. There's a brief stretch that makes clear that the area has seen better days, but then you hit Broad Street and the quaintness factor kicks in.

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Monday, April 9, 2012

Destin Dispatch: Donut Edition

Posted By on Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 8:01 AM

The Donut Hole, Destin
The beautiful beaches of Destin, Florida, and its ritzier neighbors (like Alys Beach and Seaside) sometimes seem like suburbs of Atlanta. Sure, it's a six-hour drive, but, if you're there during spring break or summer vacation, you're likely to find a high concentration of Cobb County and Dekalb County license plates. What you'll also find is a donut destination to rival our own dynamic duo of Sublime Doughnuts and Dutch Monkey. Destin proper has the Donut Hole (two locations, actually, one in Destin and one in Santa Rosa). Alys Beach has Charlie's Donut Truck. And the donut wars of Destin are being waged over which of these two old-school purveyors offers the better chocolate glazed.

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Monday, March 5, 2012

Drinking and dining and drinking in NYC

Posted By on Mon, Mar 5, 2012 at 1:36 PM

Keens Steakhouse: Olde. School.
  • Keens Steakhouse: Olde. School.
This past weekend, on a jaunt to Manhattan to celebrate the wife's latest round-numbered birthday, we sampled a bit of the new and the old — mostly the old — and found nearly everything more agreeable than we'd expected.

I don't eat steak all that often, but I've got a thing about old-school steakhouses. It's really more about enjoying the atmosphere and the memorabilia on display. If the food is decent, then all the better. And in New York, you don't get much more old-school than Keens Steakhouse, opened in 1885 just north of Herald Square. I've wanted to eat at Keens since first seeing a photo of the dining room, with walls covered with old photos and handbills, and thousands of ancient clay pipes hanging from the ceiling. But, after checking out the very New Yorkish prices, I became concerned about the prospect of paying a small fortune for mediocre food.

We arrive customarily early and wedge ourselves into the crowded bar, which — first good sign — boasts an impressive display of dozens of bottles of obscure Scotches and other spirits. Spotting a brand of rye I'd not seen before, one WhistlePig from Vermont, I asked the bartender how much it was. He couldn't recall but offered to look it up.

"Don't go to that much trouble," I said. "I'll take it in a Manhattan — unless it's, like, $40 a shot."

Famous last words.

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Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Willy Wonka & the Tapas Factory: a meal at é by José Andrés

Posted By on Wed, Feb 22, 2012 at 10:39 AM

e by Jose Andres
  • The Golden Ticket
I got a golden ticket. It wasn't from Willy Wonka, though. It was from José Andrés. He's basically the Willy Wonka of Spanish cuisine in America — you've probably seen him on TV delivering the boundless joy of good food to people like Anthony Bourdain or Conan O'Brien. My golden ticket did not include meeting José, but it was a requirement for entry into what is possibly his most whimsical restaurant — é by José Andrés — in what is probably the most whimsical (and deranged) town in America — Las Vegas.

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Thursday, January 5, 2012

Just to share: The baddest-ass tea-pourer in the history of the universe

Posted By on Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 1:59 PM

From Bangkok, Thailand. But can he do that with sweet tea? Mary Mac's wants to know!

(H/T and @drewmagary)

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