Kitchen Witch - Citrus of a different stripe

Ever realize there’s never a countdown to winter like there is for summer? Me, I can’t stand shorter days, colder nights, dreary skies and endless wind. The only consolation for this miserable, seemingly never-ending phenomenon is the arrival of citrus fruit.

And I’m not just talking navel oranges and ruby grapefruits. There’s a groovy world out there behind that rainbow of rind. This week, I take on the Minneola tangelo and its spunky grandmother, the pomelo.

The Minneola Tangelo
January isn’t just for Super Bowl nachos; it’s the month of the Minneola. Available only for a few short weeks, this juicy mama is a cross between a tangerine and its ancestor, the pomelo (we’ll get to her shortly) - ergo the name “tange-lo.” (No relation to J., by the way.)

The Minneola (also known as a honeybell) is distinctive in shape, color and flavor. In the supermarket, you can single her out by her trademark knobbed nipple. Her skin, a more intense red-orange, is slightly dimply, like pockmarks, and easy to peel. Her tender flesh is easily separated into segments, which are more like sacs of citrus essence to be sipped rather than wedges of orange meat to be chewed.

Seeds are nonexistent or scant, and the health benefits are many: vitamin C, calcium, potassium and folic acid, a boon during pregnancy.

Try them with thinly sliced fennel and olive oil, or sprigs of mint and almonds if eating them out of hand gets tired. Arugula, watercress and dandelion greens, all with a peppery quality, also love Minneola’s, juicy sweet-tart nature.

The Pomelo
Just when you think you’ve finished peeling away the thick yellow-green rind of the giant pomelo (say pom-EY-lo), you still have to make your way through a girdle of security guard pith before it’s snack time. If you’re in a rush, forget the pomelo; leave this giant beauty for the weekend or for more stress-free moments. The largest of all the citrus fruits, the pomelo looks like an overgrown grapefruit (or a bowling ball). In fact, it’s thought to be the ancestor of the grapefruit, originating from Malaysia and China. Eventually, it made its way onto Caribbean soil, where it’s known as a shaddock.

In addition to its unusual size, the pomelo has a gorgeous, peppery aroma (I’m surprised that no one has yet concocted a pomelo perfume). Its flesh, either coral pink or white/green grapeish, is a delightful surprise, much sweeter than that oft-puckersome grapefruit. Vitamin C and potassium you’ll get — that is, if you have a half-hour to eat the thing. Pomelos are a great accompaniment to scallops and shrimp, and pairs beautifully with basil.

Next time: cousin blood orange and her many, freaky ways in the kitchen.??