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Mike Fortunato made a name for himself back in 2007, when he opened Pizzeria Fortunato in Smyrna. His new Italian spot feels very much like a neighborhood joint with a touch of class. The chef is Justin Cox, who came to Atlanta from New York and worked briefly at Restaurant Eugene. Fortunato's rallying cry is that everything is made in house -- from pastas to desserts. Of those pastas, the squid ink spaghetti is the best; a wicked black slick of noodles full of oceanic flavor, surrounded by shrimp, clams and calamari. Caffe Fortunato isn’t a cheap outing, but the care and personality on display are heartening.

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Price: $$-$$$ ($15 and over)

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